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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.